Award-winning British perfumer designer and private fragrance consultant Azzi Glasser is renowned for her unique approach to crafting scent. With a long list of esteemed A-list clients, her creations are truly bespoke and highly acclaimed.
Having founded her personal brand The Perfumers Story by Azzi in 2015, her sophisticated and unique debut collection of fragrances and brand new scented candles is now available to buy both in-store and online at The Conran Shop.
We spoke to Azzi about her creative stimuli, career in fragrance design and the science behind her sophisticated collection.
How would you describe your profession?
A perfume designer.
How did you start out in the industry?
After working for 10 years as Creative Global Director at a British fragrance house, I started up my first perfume company and launched my first perfume, the signature fragrance for Agent Provocateur, followed by ‘Maitresse ‘ in 2000, together with the Agent Provocateur founders.
I then continued to create perfumes for Jasper Conran, Nicole Farhi, Jack Wills and recently created the Bella Freud fragrance and candle collection. I also started up my own bespoke perfumery and have created bespoke perfumes for many Hollywood actors such as Johnny Depp, Helena Bonham Carter, Jude Law, Orlando Bloom, to name a few.
This led me to create my brand, The Perfumer’s Story, where each of my 11 new compositions in the fragrance collection are based on ‘character and style’, each with an artistic story and reference. I have been fortunate to work over the years with so many incredible personalities that herald their unique style, I could see there was a demand for fragrances to be more individual with a real spice of originality.
I wanted to create the ultimate finishing touch that would be adored by others, totally loyal to the wearer and evoke memories for years to come. The desire to relate both emotionally and personally to a fragrance is a growing trend in the luxury market. Many people now want a perfume that suits them and not one that suits a market trend.
Talk us through the process of creating one of your signature scents.
The Perfumer’s Story – F3236703 – ‘Old Books.’ The character and style for Old Books is creative, intelligent and unique. If you love heritage and enjoy the arts and culture you will absolutely love this fragrance, which is also unisex.
The fragrance mirrors the beautiful memory of picking up that old book in Grandma’s attic, and watching it fall apart, which holds memories of heritage and intelligence that is profound and a rare perfection. It whispers to you when you wear it and also to those around you by the incredible ingredients of Frankincense, Olibanum, Myrrh, and Elemi with a loyal accord of Patchouli, Amber Vetivert and Cedar.
Stephen Fry is a big fan – he says of the fragrance: “Sometimes serendipity really happens. I found myself being introduced to Azzi, falling into conversation with her and plunging in love with the way she approaches scent all within ten minutes. Old Books is the first one she diagnosed for me and, absurd as the name may seem, the actual fragrance entirely lives up to it. I am in a library, I am happy, excited and filled with the double sense of calm and adventure that libraries and old books promise. And yet this is a scent to wear and like. Azzi takes the design and structuring of perfume to new, intense, thoughtful and creative levels.”
What is the importance of personality in scent creation?
A fragrance must always have the personality of sensual appeal whether for a man or a woman. My fragrance collection comprises of 11 different characters and styles to bring this addictive and magnetic quality out in you, whilst leaving an unforgettable trail behind.
What should we consider when choosing a fragrance, for the home and for ourselves?
A fragrance is a powerful tool, creating sensations and imagery, evoking visions, feelings and thoughts. It can and should totally define you and your environment – your home.
I have discovered and created ‘Perfumed Architecture’ for home living. This comprises of a unique five-piece candle range, designed to bring unique character and style to the different interiors and living experiences around the home, a new window in the sensory home fragrance market – perfectly tailored to match scent personality with living space.
Each candle emits specific moods of warmth, richness or sheer decadence, transforming each room with a fresh identity and ambience. You can style your entire home with the sensual dark flora of ‘Fever 54’ (bedroom), the intimate leather of the erotic ‘Tuscan Suede’ (library or drawing room), the fresh violet bohemian floral of ‘Twisted Iris’ (bathroom) or the magnetic and welcoming patchouli and oud of ‘Black Moss’ (entrance hall or living room), together with the appetising and enticing ‘Fig Ambrette’ (kitchen or dining room).
What inspires you creatively?
The love I have for people and life. I get inspired by when I open all my senses to the world.
What is your current favourite scent?
‘Sequoia Wood’ – The Perfumer’s Story by Azzi. This happens to be my own signature fragrance and I wanted to release it mainly due to the incredible comments and admiration I have had over the years from many people.
The composition is layered around the sensual, deep richness of red Sequoia Wood, which appears mainly in the heart of the fragrance. It is enhanced on the top by a slight flirtatious freshness of Neroli and Palmarosa with a kissable base of Cedar, Patchouli and White Musk oils. It smells sublime and matches my character and style completely.
Your most classic?
My mother always wore ‘Worth’ by Je Reviens; it holds a fond memory for heritage and classic beauty.
And your worst?
Most fragrances that are sold in the market that are particularly fruity and sweet.
What is the science behind creating a home fragrance range inspired by perfume? Are the eau de parfums and scented candles completely identical?
When I create fragrances for candles, it is slightly different to when I am creating fragrances for perfumes for skin. I am quite fussy, so the candles must perform in fragrance character, but also in strength. It needs to fill the room and therefore needs to be at different levels of molecular concentration of the individual ingredients in the formulation.
As the base medium is different to a perfume, as it is natural wax, I carry out lots of testing to accomplish this. Three of the fragrances are the same to match my perfumes – ‘Fever 54’, ‘Twisted Iris’ and ‘Tuscan Suede’, as they all perform exceptionally well in candles but also have the perfect character and style that extend well into the home.
Join us to celebrate The Conran Shop’s launch of The Perfumer’s Story by Azzi. Enjoy a night of infused cocktails and conversation with Azzi, in a discussion hosted by Brix Smith-Start. See our Events page for more details.
Discover the fragrances from The Perfumer’s Story by Azzi online and in-store at The Conran Shop. Simply click here to view the whole collection.